Nothing to blog about for days and days, and then suddenly WHAM! I invite you to visit the Los Angeles Times web site for this little opinion piece on "The language of wine snobbery". Let me know when you are finished...
OK, good. This little column has already generated quite a bit of comment around the internets (here's one on Tom Wark's Fermentation, and another on Steve Heimoff's new blog.) I'm finding the strong negative reaction a little surprising, because I rather liked it.
The piece begins with a great hook about "a whole lot of jackass"; indeed, when a writer comes up with a line like that, the first thing they want to do is run out and use it. Kinda like getting a BB gun or a sex change; the excitement must be overwhelming.
The problem is that we have an inflammatory starting line, and as a result everyone is apparently missing an excellent point.
The problem is that so much wine reviewing has devolved into "it smelled like this, and then it tasted like that". Not very expressive use of the language is it? I think this paragraph sums it up nicely:
"And it's not just wine -- or chocolate, tea, coffee and olive oil --
where the language is now exactly the same. Movie critics, book
reviewers and television writers have all become 6-year-olds telling me
everything that happened on an episode of "SpongeBob" -- wasting
paragraph after paragraph impersonally recounting plot, as if my sole
goal as a reader is to glean just enough to get into arguments at
wine-tasting parties."
The point being: "I want to know that a Zinfandel, our greatest native grape, tastes like America: big, bold, unsubtle and ready to fight." Do you really care whether it smells like tobacco or instead smells like cedar? What about how it makes you feel?
One of the best reviews I've seen of our wines, in the San Francisco Chronicle, said that our 2006 Verdelho was "...a ballerina in steel-toed boots." I'll take a review like that any day.
(Illustration above from Chateau Petrogasm, a little ironic poke at Mr. Wark, which I sincerely hope he appreciates.)
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